|
 |
Frequently
Asked Questions (FAQs) |
|
General |
|
Microbrew Kit |
Do I need a brewing license? |
|
Why do I need a Microbrew Kit? |
Why do people homebrew? |
|
|
Is it difficult to brew? |
|
How to remove stubborn scum inside fermenter |
|
|
|
Fermentation |
|
Beer Concentrate |
How to ensure a successful fermentation? |
|
Can I brew a batch in less than 23 Litres? |
How to keep my fermenter cool? |
|
How to improve my beer? |
There is no bubbling. |
|
If part of malt can used .Can I keep the rest? |
Should I do a secondary Fermentation? |
|
All my beer seems to taste the same. |
Can I increase the alcohol level? |
|
What is IBU? |
Fermentation stopped but my FG is still high |
|
|
What is dry hopping? |
|
Looks and Taste |
|
|
How to get beer head? |
|
|
Beer taste sour |
|
|
|
|
|
|
General
(FAQs) |
Do
I need a brewing license? |
When homebrewing started in 2004, licensing was required. But in early 2008, it was removed. For more information, go to customs website.
|
Why do people homebrew? |
There are many reasons and advantages in brewing your own beer. The most common is cost saving. Since there is no alcohol tax involved, every pint of your own cost no more than a dollar, compared to paying $4 in shops. The choice of beer is almost limitless. Not only brewing is fun, beer never tasted better before.
|
|
Brewing is easy. With the Microbrew Kit, there is step-by-step instructions and DVD demo.
|
Microbrew
Kit (FAQs) |
Why
do I need a Microbrew Kit? |
The Microbrew Kit is the
most comprehensive beginner kit. Designed to ensure
that you have a successful first brew. Brewing
should be simple and fun. A few simple steps in
making great tasting beer without being bogged
down by intricacy of brewing science.
Beer concentrate (or hopped malt), Brewing Sugar
and Carbonation Drops make up your basic Ingredients.
Use up all of it each time to get 23 Litres beers
of 4.5% alcohol level. Do not use partially. |
How
many times can I reuse the pet bottles? |
Pet bottles can be reused
many times, if maintained properly. The caps work
fine even after seal has been broken first time.
Change seal cap if you suspect leakage. Always
rinse your bottle thoroughly after each pour to
prevent bacteria growth.
|
How
to remove stubborn scum inside fermenter? |
Don't we all hate washing?
Especially those difficult ring of scum stucked
on the inside fermenter. Hard scrubbing will leave
scratches that eventually harbour bacteria or
beer spoilers.
One simple method is by using hot water. This
will soften the scum, making easy removal.
|
|
|
|
Fermentation
(FAQs) |
How
to ensure a successful fermentation? |
What you do before the start
of fermentation will determine pretty much the
outcome of your beer.
1 Sanitisation - Make sure all equipment which
come in contact with the wort is well sanitised.
Sterilisation is diferent from sanitization. Sterilisation
is the complete removal of bacteria which is virtually
impossible in homebrewing. On the other hand,
sanitising is a process of reducing 'beer spoilers'
so that the yeast could take control before those
nasty germs have a chance to make their presence
felt.
2. Aeration - Make sure you get as much air (oxygen)
into the wort as possible. The yeasts need all
the oxygen it can get to grow and multiply in
numbers (aerobic) in order to convert all the
sugar and maltose into CO2 and (much needed) alcohol.
Otherwise, you will end up with high finishing
gravity and a beer with a sweet aftertaste.
3. Temperature - Although Coopers yeast is able
to ferment at high temp (up to 30C) with reconsiderably
good result. Tradition brewing temperature has
always been recommended to be between 21C - 27C.
4. Ingredients - Good beer comes from quality
and fresh ingredients. We import all our beer
kit direct from Coopers Brewery and kept in cold
storage. Freshness guaranteed.
|
How
to keep my fermenter cool? |
There are a few easy ways
to keep that tropical heat out of our fermenter.
1. Evaporation - Drape a wet towel round the
fermenter and set it in a tub of water. The towel
will wick up more water as it vaporize, thus cooling
the fermenter. Add some ice and use a fan to blow
at it, will certainly bring the temperature down
a few notches.
2. Air-condition - It may bring the cost up slightly
but certainly worth a try.
3. Fermenter Chiller - Electrical cooling that keep your fermentation at constant 21 degree celsius.
4. Cooler Box - Powered
by ice, this is your perfect solution to temperature
control. |
|
With Coopers yeast, fermentation
should commence within 24 hrs. If you do not see
any bubbling, check the wort - If foaming is seen
throught the lid (sign of fermentation) then there
isn't much to worry about. The lid may be lose
or rubber gasket had already worn out. Replace
the gasket and tighten the lid.
|
Should
I do a secondary fermentation? |
Secondary fermentation does
take place in the bottle. However, racking the
beer to another fermenter or glass carboy for
about 2 weeks has many advantages. It allows the
beer to clear when suspended yeasts settle out.
At the same time, these remaining yeasts continue
to 'work on the beer' until it matures - a process
called conditioning. This is also a chance for
us to enhance aroma through dry hopping.
The down side of transfering into another container
is oxidation. Ensure that no splashing takes place
during transfer and keep the end of hose below
the level of beer. Oxidation causes staling -
an undesirable beer factor.
|
Can
I increase the alcohol level? |
We can get more alcohol in
the beer by adding more brewing sugar. 1% ABV
with every 500gm of sugar. However, this is not
recommended because it will alter the balance
of flavour which every can of Coopers concentrate
distinctively contains.
|
Fermentation
stopped but my FG is still high |
If you FG read 1.016 or more
over 2 days, you're probably experiencing a 'stuck
fermentation. This happened when yeast flocculate
(settle to the bottom) too early. Common reasons
are insufficient wort aeration, incorrect temp
when yeast is pitched or even contamination. Stir
up the yeast and wait for a few more days. Pitch
another pack of yeast as a last resort.
|
|
Dry hopping is adding of
hops after primary fermentation has completed.
Usually during the 2 weeks of secondary fermentation
in another carboy. Simply fill 1/2 oz (14g) of
hop pellets in a steep bag and drop it in the
beer. Dry hopping is known to be more effective
in enhancing aroma than late hopping (last 5 min
of boil).
|
|
|
|
Beer Concentrate
(FAQs) |
Can
I brew less than 23 Litres? |
The Coopers hopped
malt 1.7kg has been specially designed to make 23 litres
of beer with the right flavour and bitterness. However,
some recipes may ask for less water to be used.
Stout is usually preferred with greater bitterness
and strength. Brewing to 18 litres or less makes stouter
stout. Caution: less water means higher OG. Make sure
your wort is well aerated and pitch 2 packs of yeast
if possible. |
How
to improve my beer? |
There are many ways which you can
improve your beer after you have master the basic principles
of brewing.
Use better Brewing Sugar - Enhancer 1 contains dextrose
and maltodextrin for better results. Enhancer 2 contain
dried malt, dextrose and maltodextrin for body improvement
Alternatively, replace brewing sugar with malt - Use
1.5kg of light, amber or dark malt extract instead of
1 kg sugar will make an all-malt brew. In doing that,
use Munton Premium Gold Yeast for the job. Significant
overall improvement to your beer.
Add hops - We can boost flavour and aroma to our beer
by adding hops. Methods: Boil 1/2 litre of water and
steep hops for 10 - 15 min; Remove hop bag and add 'hop
tea' into wort before topping up with cold water.
Yeast - Different yeast strains yield different result.
You are the brewmaster, try them all.
|
If
part of can malt used. Can I keep the rest? |
Yes. If the recipe call for partial
can of plain malt to be added. You can cover the opening
and keep it in fridge until next brew. However when
reusing, make sure you boil it in water for at least
10 minutes.
|
All
my beer seems to taste the same ? |
A can of concentrate and 1 kg of
brewing sugar can only subtlely bring out the style
and taste of beer. Many people give up brewing because
of this. We can't teach all about brewing in one day.
We only hope you could hang in there long enough for
us to show you what you can achieve. We can easily make
a beer taste better than commercial but we can never
beat our expectation. Also, do you realise we have never
judged a beer until we start making one?
As a beginner, we try not to make a bad beer even if
they taste the same. Least, you're getting the right
techniques - the pre-requisite to making great beers!
|
|
IBU - International Bittering Unit.
A measure of beer bitterness. Normal beer ranges from
20 -40 IBU. Typically, Heineken has IBU between 20-25;
Guiness Stout has more than 45 IBU.
|
|
|
|
Looks and
Taste(FAQs) |
|
Unfermentable sugar such as dextrin
malt (carapil) and maltodextrin powder are tasteless
carbohydrates that 'hang around' your beer, adding vicosity
and head retention. Dissolve 100 - 200gm of maltodextrin
together with all your malt and sugar.
|
Beer
taste sour |
It is not a good sign. Possibly
contamination. Symtoms : 1.Late start to fermentation
2. Laggish fementation. Wild yeast could have gotten
to the beer more than desired. But don't dump it yet.
Some beer lose it's sourness over time.
1. Getting your wort to pitching temperature is very
important so as to allow yeast to get control before
bacteria does. Prepare cold water the night before brewing
day. Use ice only as a last resort, as it could harbour
nasty germs.
2. Less exposure to air helps prevent wild yeast from
having their feast. Thus spoiling your favourite beer.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|