The Microbrew Kit is the most comprehensive beginner kit. Designed to ensure that you have a successful first brew. Brewing should be simple and fun. A few simple steps in making great tasting beer without being bogged down by intricacy of brewing science.

Beer concentrate (or hopped malt), Brewing Sugar and Carbonation Drops make up your basic Ingredients. Use up all of it each time to get 23 Litres beers of 4.5% alcohol level. Do not use partially.

How many times can I reuse the pet bottles?

Pet bottles can be reused many times, if maintained properly. The caps work fine even after seal has been broken first time. Change seal cap if you suspect leakage. Always rinse your bottle thoroughly after each pour to prevent bacteria growth.

Don't we all hate washing? Especially those difficult ring of scum stucked on the inside fermenter. Hard scrubbing will leave scratches that eventually harbour bacteria or beer spoilers.
One simple method is by using hot water. This will soften the scum, making easy removal.

What you do before the start of fermentation will determine pretty much the outcome of your beer.

1 Sanitisation - Make sure all equipment which come in contact with the wort is well sanitised. Sterilisation is diferent from sanitization. Sterilisation is the complete removal of bacteria which is virtually impossible in homebrewing. On the other hand, sanitising is a process of reducing 'beer spoilers' so that the yeast could take control before those nasty germs have a chance to make their presence felt.

2. Aeration - Make sure you get as much air (oxygen) into the wort as possible. The yeasts need all the oxygen it can get to grow and multiply in numbers (aerobic) in order to convert all the sugar and maltose into CO2 and (much needed) alcohol. Otherwise, you will end up with high finishing gravity and a beer with a sweet aftertaste.

3. Temperature - Although Coopers yeast is able to ferment at high temp (up to 30C) with reconsiderably good result. Tradition brewing temperature has always been recommended to be between 21C - 27C.

4. Ingredients - Good beer comes from quality and fresh ingredients. We import all our beer kit direct from Coopers Brewery and kept in cold storage. Freshness guaranteed.

How to keep my fermenter cool?

There are a few easy ways to keep that tropical heat out of our fermenter.

1. Evaporation - Drape a wet towel round the fermenter and set it in a tub of water. The towel will wick up more water as it vaporize, thus cooling the fermenter. Add some ice and use a fan to blow at it, will certainly bring the temperature down a few notches.

2. Air-condition - It may bring the cost up slightly but certainly worth a try.

3. Fermenter Chiller - Electrical cooling that keep your fermentation at constant 21 degree celsius.

4. Cooler Box - Powered by ice, this is your perfect solution to temperature control.

With Coopers yeast, fermentation should commence within 24 hrs. If you do not see any bubbling, check the wort - If foaming is seen throught the lid (sign of fermentation) then there isn't much to worry about. The lid may be lose or rubber gasket had already worn out. Replace the gasket and tighten the lid.

Secondary fermentation does take place in the bottle. However, racking the beer to another fermenter or glass carboy for about 2 weeks has many advantages. It allows the beer to clear when suspended yeasts settle out. At the same time, these remaining yeasts continue to 'work on the beer' until it matures - a process called conditioning. This is also a chance for us to enhance aroma through dry hopping.

The down side of transfering into another container is oxidation. Ensure that no splashing takes place during transfer and keep the end of hose below the level of beer. Oxidation causes staling - an undesirable beer factor.

We can get more alcohol in the beer by adding more brewing sugar. 1% ABV with every 500gm of sugar. However, this is not recommended because it will alter the balance of flavour which every can of Coopers concentrate distinctively contains.

If you FG read 1.016 or more over 2 days, you're probably experiencing a 'stuck fermentation. This happened when yeast flocculate (settle to the bottom) too early. Common reasons are insufficient wort aeration, incorrect temp when yeast is pitched or even contamination. Stir up the yeast and wait for a few more days. Pitch another pack of yeast as a last resort.

Dry hopping is adding of hops after primary fermentation has completed. Usually during the 2 weeks of secondary fermentation in another carboy. Simply fill 1/2 oz (14g) of hop pellets in a steep bag and drop it in the beer. Dry hopping is known to be more effective in enhancing aroma than late hopping (last 5 min of boil).